Any product should be rated and reviewed according to his proposal. You don't see food critics complaining about gourmet food cuz "it is too expensive and fancy", when is the point of the gourmet food.
Just as an aside, food critics do complain about food being too expensive or too fancy, and as trends change so do their expectations; what was once standard could be judged by critics today as pretentious; molecular gastronomy, as a result, tends to unsettle certain critics. Also, it isn't unheard of for food critics to complain something being too ordinary even if it is done well - the word 'uninspired' comes to mind.
You should actually go and sample a bunch of three star, two star, and one star restaurants and then go for those allegedly gourmet places and you'll see why a ton of them never will earn a single star no matter how hard they try.
Point being that industries do change as do expectations. Welcome to 2020 btw.
