Human Variant usually is the one and only reason you play a human (not for RP purposes) so Human variant is a must, unless they allow feats at first level for everybody as an optional rule.
I don't find variant humans to be all that great. They give up a lot for that one bonus feat. Most of the time, it's just better getting more ASI.
The only time I see a human truly shining is if the game table doesn't use feats. Then standard humans are pretty good.