I mostly play Half Elf, Half Orc, or Elf. If I do play human, it is usually to play some convoluted multi-class build that needs a lot of different stats, so the +1 to all stats could actually be useful. This will probably hold true for BG3.
Variant human, unquestionably, Only reason it might be close is if you roll 6 odd stats and can bump ASIs for every score - and even then, +1 to your best 3 scores plus a half feat seems like a better option.
Lack of dark vision for a human can be rough. Variant human is a very strong option but it depends on the importance of stealth and vision in a campaign... and whether the rest of the party has dark vision.
