Larian Studios Forums General Chat Chat (Anything) The PC "Help" Thread

Remember, while checking inside of your computer, be sure to have an elbow (bare skinned) or hand on a non-painted metallic surface of the computer, since those surfaces are grounded. The components inside the computer is made to handle 12 volts and static electricity can build up to 10000 volts on your hands. If one of the circuits in your computer comes in contact with 10000 volts, that circuit will die, which is not very good. So stay grounded! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/winkwink.gif" alt="" />

Übereil

You can always check if its not something as simple as a component having come loose...

Open the machine, check if all the cards are in propperly... (you should not be able to see the golden rows of "teeth" where the card clips into the slot... so press on all the cards with MODERATE force, (please dont go snap anything)...

Check if the memory is propperly in by using the same method... and while you at it, check that the ribbon cables are in firmly aswell...

even though it doesnt boot, leave the machine on for 3- 5 minutes, and feel if any part of the computer gets excesively hot, check if all the fans are spinning. The Heatsink on your CPU should NEVER be hotter than lukewarm. for that matter no component should be much hotter than lukewarm.

If all these things are fine...

try the following:
While the machine is off
unplug the power from the unnecesary devices like CD rom, stiffy drive, 2nd hard drive (if any).
See if it will boot now...
If this help, there may be a problem with one of those devices, OR your powersupply is faulty and is no longer supplying enough stable power (and this is where my gut tells me the problem may be, if its not a faulty motherboard and/or CPU as suggested earlier).

Giant rubber wellies and a rubber glove on your head in the rough approximation of a chicken's head

[color:"orange"]That small fan atop the motherboard's onboard chip does not spin.[/color]

Do other lights and fans come on? A bad power supply can light LEDs and turn fans, but not allow the system to POST.

Did you try a different power connector for the fan? For that your motherboard would have to have another fan connector close enough, or you would need an adapter to plug it into a 4 pin connector from the power supply.


[color:"orange"]So now I need to practically rebuild my computer by removing and replacing the motherboard.[/color]

The recent symptoms are consistent with something overheating and possibly becoming permanently damaged (not sure if current chipsets get that hot). The occasional boot problems you had from the start could be due to a bad power supply (though I suppose a loose connection somewhere could behave that way, as well).

Before replacing the MB, try plugging in a different power supply, if possible. You would only need to connect the MB, main fans (if they don't connect through the MB) and the video card (if required) to check if it will POST, not hard drives, etc.

Dear Sir/Madam,
There are a couple of reason that your system may not be sending a signal to your monitor or giving you any post beeps. The first thing to try is to insure that we are not having something as simple as a grounding/emi interference problem. Start by taking the motherboard out of the case you have it in, set it back up on the cardboard box that it came in straight to the card board(do not use the antistatic foam, plastic, or an antistatic mat as these can keep your system from posting) if you do not have the box then use a phone book, newspaper or some other completely non-conductive material. Connect up to the motherboard just the bare minimums needed to post your system up the cpu(w/heatsink and fan), video card(connected to monitor), memory, power supply and powered speakers if your board has our vocal post reporter. Power the system up outside the case, if you are now getting video and post then we need to take some extra steps before mounting the board back into your case to prevent it from not posting again, the easiest remedy for this is to get some standard black electrical tape and make a cross over the brass or metal standoffs you are mounting the board into, this will accomplish 2 things, it will insure against a metal to metal contact and it will lift the board up away from the case insuring that no solder points are sitting to close to the case generating an emi field.

If out of the case you are still getting no post/no video then we need to try and force a post/vocal post error, remove your cpu from the socket and power the system up if you then get post/vocal post errors such as no cpu installed then we will need to have the cpu tested to insure that it is functioning properly, go thru each of the main components that we had left connected to the board to verify they are working. Another reason your board may not be posting is if your board came with a bios on it that will not support the cpu you have installed, please go to the link provided below and check to see if your board required a bios update to work with your cpu:

http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx.

Power can also be a factor when you are having a no post/no video situation as each power supply manufacturer differs in the way they rate their wattages you can have huge difference in the actual amount of power the power supply can push out. When choosing a power supply the best method would be to check the side of the power supply under DC output and verify what each of the voltage rails can distribute. We recommend that the +3.3 voltage rail which powers your cpu and your video card can supply at least 28 amps, the +5 voltage rail which powers up all of the IC chips on your motherboard be able to supply at least 35 amps, the +12 voltage rail which powers all drives and fans be able to supply at least 18-20 amps and the +5VSB which will be the determining factor for bringing your system out of standby mode be able to supply at least 2 amps.

You may also want to try clearing your CMOS settings using the CLRTC(CLR_RTC) jumper or solder points and removing the battery this will set the bios back to factory defaults and may resolve a bios conflict that can cause the problem you are having. To do this first locate the CMOS battery and the CLRTC jumper/solder points in your user manual on the page with the drawn motherboard layout this is usually in the first section of your manual, next unplug your power supply cord from the back of the computer, pop the battery out and move the jumper cap or short the solder points for fifteen seconds after doing this then reverse the procedure.

After trying all of these steps and verifying all other components as working then please contact our RMA dept.

I bought a new PC a few days ago(finally) and it got a dual core 1.86GHz processor(s). Now I wonder: is this equal to a 3.72GHz processor or is it just faster then a 1.86GHz processor?
Other information about the PC:
Graphical card: Geforce 7650GS
1GB RAM
DVD-writer 16x
DVD-reader 16x
I wasn't able to see which motherboard it got

I'm pretty happy about it and for the one's intrested it costed €799.

open that text file copy and paste it on the forum and voila all your details will be laid bare